My Cavy First Aid Box
A few items i keep on hand for my pigs, weighing scales, critical care formula, probiotics, trigene, bimectin, imaverol, lice n easy shampoo, swarfega, antiseptic cream, daktarin cream, fungal spray, trimmex, vitamin c, calcuim, metatone, fibreplex, wormer, clippers, tweezers, syringes, mite shampoo, surgical spirit, cotton pads/buds, brolene eye drops,
A few items i keep on hand for my pigs, weighing scales, critical care formula, probiotics, trigene, bimectin, imaverol, lice n easy shampoo, swarfega, antiseptic cream, daktarin cream, fungal spray, trimmex, vitamin c, calcuim, metatone, fibreplex, wormer, clippers, tweezers, syringes, mite shampoo, surgical spirit, cotton pads/buds, brolene eye drops,
Guinea Pig Nail Clipping
Nail clipping single handed. My handsome helper Rusk the 4 month old swiss boar. Nail clipping is a basic need and one most owners should master. Practice makes perfect! Also don't worry we have all snipped the quick (bloodline) clipping nails. You can buy styptic powder/trimmex to have in the animal medical box, this stops the bleeding. I use the clippers pictured. There are many ways to position or hold a cavy when clipping. Do what works best for you. You can have the pig sat on your lap and hold the feet in one hand (pictured) and snip. Or you can hold the pigs back against your chest with their back end standing on your lap if easier ; note my forefinger is to control his head and my hand is supporting his body. If confident you can clip all 4 paws by holding the pig this way by lifting them slightly off the mat to do back paws. (Your hand supports the pig so they shouldn't squirm) If a pig is well handled there's no need to wrap them in towels as iv seen suggested in some threads. Even the fiesty pigs can be held safely and securely for nails to be snipped quickly. Rusks nails are easy to snip as you can see his quick (bloodline) easier. Jet has black nails but i clip nails little and often and know where to clip (bred black pointed himis for years, all black toes so well and truely mastered this) |
CheiF
For advice / pictures on sexing your guinea pigs, please see the "sexing your guinea pig" tab on the left.
Handling ; Guinea pigs are naturally skittish animals and require daily handling to get them used to humans. Always ensure you support the guinea pigs at the front and back end to prevent them from falling. Guinea pigs do not usually bite, they make nip if they feel frightened. Usually they will have a nibble as they think they are getting fed. Often mistaking our fingers for food. Guinea pigs have also been known to lick on our hands, this seems to be them licking the salt off our skin. Guinea pig will also nibble at our hands if we have the scent of other guinea pigs on us. Handle pigs little and often, talk to them and get them used to your daily routine. When bringing new pigs home they may take 24/48 hours to settle in. Do not overwhelm the guinea pig(s) by handling for long periods of time or chasing them around their cage in attempts to catch them. Offering them fresh grass or veggies often persuades them to venture out.
Health & Illness ; Guinea pigs can become unwell, and it is our duty as their owners to ensure they get all the vet advice,treatment they require. Grooming is a must with the longer haired breeds. Also make sure your piggies nails are kept clipped, Be careful not to cut the quick (bloodline ) If you accidentally nip the quick a dab of flour usually stops the bleeding. You can also buy anticoagulant powders from pet stores or online. If you're ever unsure how to do this seek vet advice or ask someone who knows what they are doing to help. Some guinea pigs may need a little more attention taken to their grease spot (located on their rump area) This spot may become dirty/greasy and need cleaned.
Mites, Mange, Lice, Runners, Static (lots of names for various critters) There are varying types but i always recommend treating pigs with ivermectin if they are presenting with hair loss or itching/scratching. This is for mites, never bathe a guinea pig with suspected mites as this causes the mite to burrow deep into the skin.
Running lice are cream/white wiggly critters you usually notice around the ears/head. These are also best treated with ivermectin.
Small black flecks usually found around the rump of the guinea pig are known at static mites, these are harmless to the guinea pig just unsightly and very visible on light coloured pigs. Static do not cause itching/scratching or hairloss. These can be easily treated using gorgeous guinea lice and easy shampoo or using a biosect lice/mite spray.
Ringworm - Fungal Infections
Guinea pigs can also get fungal infections (ringworm). Ringworm is zoonotic (can pass to humans and other animals) Strict hygiene must be followed. Ringworm can be treated with F10 cream, daktarin or canestan creams or an oral gel. Imaverol is an excellent all over dip for widespread or multiple fungal infections. Always ensure you wash all cages/toys/hides etc with virkon/f10 or anigene as these will destroy the fungal bacteria.
Cheilitis - Mouth sores, scabs, infections
Cheilitis can present in many ways, swollen lips, sores or scabs around the mouth. This infection can be caused by either staphylococcus (bacteria) or candida albicans (yeast infection). Its a common misconception that acidic fruits cause this, this is incorrect. Acidic fruits will irritate any infections present.
Bacteria/fungal can irritate any broken skin (caused by sharp hay, food etc) some will even get in the body via hair follicles. Treatment is determined by the cause of the infection.
Eye Injuries (Hay Pokes) Hay pokes or other minor eye injuries can be treated with Chloramphenicol drops (optrex infected eyes) or similar. A vet can also prescribe the correct drops if unsure.
E.Cuniculi is an internal parasite that can effect guinea pigs. Its commonly found in rabbits and can be transmitted via an infected rabbit, faceal matter or bedding/grass. Symptoms tend to be a head tilt, warbling eyes, loss of limb function. This parasite attacks the nervous system and treatment must be sought asap. Treatment is a 28day course of panacur.
Bumblefoot (ulcerative pododermatitis) is a bacterial infection and inflammatory reaction that occurs on the feet. It is caused by bacteria.. Poor husbandry is a big factor in this (wet/dirty bedding, unsuitable flooring & overgrown nails can also cause issues. Treatment varies depending on the severity of the feet. Antibacterial washes, clean soft bedding and pain relief may be needed.
Bloat in guinea pigs is caused by a build up of gas in the intestinal tract. This can be caused by the guinea pig simply eating too fast and swallowing air. (gulping food) It can also be caused by stress. Bacterial gastroenteritis can also cause bloat. A low fibre high carb diet is also thought to contribute to bloat.
Impaction (Boars) Never go poking around a boars perineal sac unless there is an imapaction that requires removed. Impaction occurs when the skin loosens and bedding and faecal matter build up. This is usually only a problem in older boars. You should not need to routinely clean this area out. If you go poking around you risk stretching the perineal sac out therefore causing the issue you are trying to avoid.
Polydactyly Toes - Guinea pigs should have 4 front toes and 3 rear toes. On occasion some can be born with an extra toe on one or more paws. These are more often than not hanging and have no blood supply. Some breeders/owners snip these off themselves safely, if unsure please seek vet advice who will determine if they have a blood supply and the safest way to remove. Its advised to remove them to stop them catching/tearing.
Hypovitaminosis also known as Scurvy is a serious disease caused by a lack of vitamin c. Guinea pigs like humans do not produce vitamin c. We require this through the fruits/veggies/food we eat. Guinea pigs with scurvy will often look poor, have a dull coat, loose teeth, lameness, prone to illness after illness (weak immune system), diarrhea, poor appetite. Scurvy takes a while to set in and is so easily avoided. No need to add vitamin c to water. A good diet is all that is required. Most guinea pig food is fortified with vitamin c and veggies will give the rest (and more).
Hypervitaminosis (Too Much Vitamin C)
We should ensure we do not over supplement our guinea pigs. Although they can excrete some of the vitamin c given they wont excrete it all. Too much vitamin c is known to cause bladder/renal stones, joint issues and there is an increased risk of arthritis in the animal. If you feed the correct diet (a dry feed fortified with vit c) and a selection of fruit/veg this is more than enough to ensure they get their 25mg daily vit c.
*poop soup* I have read many a horror story regarding poop soup. When an unwell cavy has the risk of going into gut statis do NOT mush up a fellow healthy cavies poop and feed the unwell pig this. The good gut bacteria/flora that a cavy will naturally consume is in the cecal poop. This is a soft often greenish poo that the cavy will eat directly from their bottoms. You very rarely if ever see the cecal poo. This is what would be required for the nutrients. Stick to feeding critical care formula.
If ever in doubt please seek an exotics vet especially in an emergency.
** Please note the below is not meant to replace the advice from an experienced exotics vet, I have the approval from my own exotics vet that the below are all safe treatments for cavies **
Safe Medications for Cavies.
Panacur 2.5% liquid - Wormer = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Bimectin 1% - Kills Mites & Lice = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Anigene Shampoo - Fungicidal and Antibacterial
Calpol - Pain Killer = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Children nurofen- Pain Killer = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Daktarin Foot Cream or Spray - Ringworm/Fungal infections = twice a day for 10 days
Daktarin Oral Gel - Mouth fungal infection = twice a day for 10 days
Canesten - Fungal = twice a day for 10 days
Brolene (Golden Eye Drops) - Eye infection up to 4 times a day for 7-10 days
Sudocrem - Cut, sores, dry skin
E45 - Dry skin
Sudafed - Snuffles = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Kaolin - diarrhea = 0.2ml as needed
Gripe Water - Wind & Bloat
Buscopan - stomach problems/blloat
Cystitis sachets for urinary tract infections - Mix one sachet with enough water for 2 treatments over 2 days, couple of syringes once a day.
Dioralyte - dehydration
Rescue Remedy - stress
Probiotics - To replace good bacteria when on Antibiotics
Imaverol - Dip for fungal infection = dip 3 times, 3 days apart (Entire pig to be dipped for best treatment)
Johnsons anti-mite spray - static lice
Farriers spray - Biosect
Glucose Powder - syringe feeding
Metatone - Will boost appetite
Vaseline -Used to help with impaction
** Courtesy of Cutiecavies Guinea Pig Forum **
For advice / pictures on sexing your guinea pigs, please see the "sexing your guinea pig" tab on the left.
Handling ; Guinea pigs are naturally skittish animals and require daily handling to get them used to humans. Always ensure you support the guinea pigs at the front and back end to prevent them from falling. Guinea pigs do not usually bite, they make nip if they feel frightened. Usually they will have a nibble as they think they are getting fed. Often mistaking our fingers for food. Guinea pigs have also been known to lick on our hands, this seems to be them licking the salt off our skin. Guinea pig will also nibble at our hands if we have the scent of other guinea pigs on us. Handle pigs little and often, talk to them and get them used to your daily routine. When bringing new pigs home they may take 24/48 hours to settle in. Do not overwhelm the guinea pig(s) by handling for long periods of time or chasing them around their cage in attempts to catch them. Offering them fresh grass or veggies often persuades them to venture out.
Health & Illness ; Guinea pigs can become unwell, and it is our duty as their owners to ensure they get all the vet advice,treatment they require. Grooming is a must with the longer haired breeds. Also make sure your piggies nails are kept clipped, Be careful not to cut the quick (bloodline ) If you accidentally nip the quick a dab of flour usually stops the bleeding. You can also buy anticoagulant powders from pet stores or online. If you're ever unsure how to do this seek vet advice or ask someone who knows what they are doing to help. Some guinea pigs may need a little more attention taken to their grease spot (located on their rump area) This spot may become dirty/greasy and need cleaned.
Mites, Mange, Lice, Runners, Static (lots of names for various critters) There are varying types but i always recommend treating pigs with ivermectin if they are presenting with hair loss or itching/scratching. This is for mites, never bathe a guinea pig with suspected mites as this causes the mite to burrow deep into the skin.
Running lice are cream/white wiggly critters you usually notice around the ears/head. These are also best treated with ivermectin.
Small black flecks usually found around the rump of the guinea pig are known at static mites, these are harmless to the guinea pig just unsightly and very visible on light coloured pigs. Static do not cause itching/scratching or hairloss. These can be easily treated using gorgeous guinea lice and easy shampoo or using a biosect lice/mite spray.
Ringworm - Fungal Infections
Guinea pigs can also get fungal infections (ringworm). Ringworm is zoonotic (can pass to humans and other animals) Strict hygiene must be followed. Ringworm can be treated with F10 cream, daktarin or canestan creams or an oral gel. Imaverol is an excellent all over dip for widespread or multiple fungal infections. Always ensure you wash all cages/toys/hides etc with virkon/f10 or anigene as these will destroy the fungal bacteria.
Cheilitis - Mouth sores, scabs, infections
Cheilitis can present in many ways, swollen lips, sores or scabs around the mouth. This infection can be caused by either staphylococcus (bacteria) or candida albicans (yeast infection). Its a common misconception that acidic fruits cause this, this is incorrect. Acidic fruits will irritate any infections present.
Bacteria/fungal can irritate any broken skin (caused by sharp hay, food etc) some will even get in the body via hair follicles. Treatment is determined by the cause of the infection.
Eye Injuries (Hay Pokes) Hay pokes or other minor eye injuries can be treated with Chloramphenicol drops (optrex infected eyes) or similar. A vet can also prescribe the correct drops if unsure.
E.Cuniculi is an internal parasite that can effect guinea pigs. Its commonly found in rabbits and can be transmitted via an infected rabbit, faceal matter or bedding/grass. Symptoms tend to be a head tilt, warbling eyes, loss of limb function. This parasite attacks the nervous system and treatment must be sought asap. Treatment is a 28day course of panacur.
Bumblefoot (ulcerative pododermatitis) is a bacterial infection and inflammatory reaction that occurs on the feet. It is caused by bacteria.. Poor husbandry is a big factor in this (wet/dirty bedding, unsuitable flooring & overgrown nails can also cause issues. Treatment varies depending on the severity of the feet. Antibacterial washes, clean soft bedding and pain relief may be needed.
Bloat in guinea pigs is caused by a build up of gas in the intestinal tract. This can be caused by the guinea pig simply eating too fast and swallowing air. (gulping food) It can also be caused by stress. Bacterial gastroenteritis can also cause bloat. A low fibre high carb diet is also thought to contribute to bloat.
Impaction (Boars) Never go poking around a boars perineal sac unless there is an imapaction that requires removed. Impaction occurs when the skin loosens and bedding and faecal matter build up. This is usually only a problem in older boars. You should not need to routinely clean this area out. If you go poking around you risk stretching the perineal sac out therefore causing the issue you are trying to avoid.
Polydactyly Toes - Guinea pigs should have 4 front toes and 3 rear toes. On occasion some can be born with an extra toe on one or more paws. These are more often than not hanging and have no blood supply. Some breeders/owners snip these off themselves safely, if unsure please seek vet advice who will determine if they have a blood supply and the safest way to remove. Its advised to remove them to stop them catching/tearing.
Hypovitaminosis also known as Scurvy is a serious disease caused by a lack of vitamin c. Guinea pigs like humans do not produce vitamin c. We require this through the fruits/veggies/food we eat. Guinea pigs with scurvy will often look poor, have a dull coat, loose teeth, lameness, prone to illness after illness (weak immune system), diarrhea, poor appetite. Scurvy takes a while to set in and is so easily avoided. No need to add vitamin c to water. A good diet is all that is required. Most guinea pig food is fortified with vitamin c and veggies will give the rest (and more).
Hypervitaminosis (Too Much Vitamin C)
We should ensure we do not over supplement our guinea pigs. Although they can excrete some of the vitamin c given they wont excrete it all. Too much vitamin c is known to cause bladder/renal stones, joint issues and there is an increased risk of arthritis in the animal. If you feed the correct diet (a dry feed fortified with vit c) and a selection of fruit/veg this is more than enough to ensure they get their 25mg daily vit c.
*poop soup* I have read many a horror story regarding poop soup. When an unwell cavy has the risk of going into gut statis do NOT mush up a fellow healthy cavies poop and feed the unwell pig this. The good gut bacteria/flora that a cavy will naturally consume is in the cecal poop. This is a soft often greenish poo that the cavy will eat directly from their bottoms. You very rarely if ever see the cecal poo. This is what would be required for the nutrients. Stick to feeding critical care formula.
If ever in doubt please seek an exotics vet especially in an emergency.
** Please note the below is not meant to replace the advice from an experienced exotics vet, I have the approval from my own exotics vet that the below are all safe treatments for cavies **
Safe Medications for Cavies.
Panacur 2.5% liquid - Wormer = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Bimectin 1% - Kills Mites & Lice = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Anigene Shampoo - Fungicidal and Antibacterial
Calpol - Pain Killer = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Children nurofen- Pain Killer = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Daktarin Foot Cream or Spray - Ringworm/Fungal infections = twice a day for 10 days
Daktarin Oral Gel - Mouth fungal infection = twice a day for 10 days
Canesten - Fungal = twice a day for 10 days
Brolene (Golden Eye Drops) - Eye infection up to 4 times a day for 7-10 days
Sudocrem - Cut, sores, dry skin
E45 - Dry skin
Sudafed - Snuffles = 0.1ml Under 5 months, 0.2ml 5-8 months, 0.3ml Adults
Kaolin - diarrhea = 0.2ml as needed
Gripe Water - Wind & Bloat
Buscopan - stomach problems/blloat
Cystitis sachets for urinary tract infections - Mix one sachet with enough water for 2 treatments over 2 days, couple of syringes once a day.
Dioralyte - dehydration
Rescue Remedy - stress
Probiotics - To replace good bacteria when on Antibiotics
Imaverol - Dip for fungal infection = dip 3 times, 3 days apart (Entire pig to be dipped for best treatment)
Johnsons anti-mite spray - static lice
Farriers spray - Biosect
Glucose Powder - syringe feeding
Metatone - Will boost appetite
Vaseline -Used to help with impaction
** Courtesy of Cutiecavies Guinea Pig Forum **